![]() ![]() Its notched so you can drop the sprocket down leaving enough slack in the chain to roll the chain over the teeth one tooth at a time to get the sprocket in its correct position to be placed back on the cam. If you look at the CAM chain sprocket, you will see the center hole is not round. This is done with the CAM chain tensioner removed. That's the tree things you need to ensure are true. NOW the SECOND question, how do you align these two marks (the flywheel and the cam sprocket) perfectly when you're working with a one piece chain?Īlign the crank so the mark aligns with the mark on the small inspection hole in the stator coverĬhain is installed on the CAM sprocket and the two hash marks on the back of the CAM sprocket parallel the head. First off do you align the flywheel, then put the chain on the crankshaft, then thread the chain into the head and put the chain on the sprocket, then put the sprocket and camshaft back in the head? OR does it matter what order you start in? Okay so, this is a two part question really and I am asking for a baby-step micro breakdown kind of answer. I understand how to get to the chain, BUT I would like clarification on how you put the chain back on? I know the flywheel has to be lined up with the with the alternator cover, and the cam sprocket has two index marks that need to be level with the surface of the head. One is he took off the head, but I don't see why that is necessary? Secondly even after looking through the manual extensively, there is not a section about replacing the chain itself. I read through the post that was referenced before and there are a couple questions I have. I also agree with the addition of a tech thread, and please allow new guys to post in it!!!!Īlright boys, I've continued my research on this chain. Sorry for asking so many questions guys, like I've said before I don't have a covered place to work right now so I have to wait before I can even start this project, and I REALLY want to know every detail before I start. Is that chain hard to get on once you get to it? I've never replaced a chain on anything, but it seems to me a metal one-piece chain would be quite hard to fit on a fixed position gear(s). I'm assuming that is the cam timing? I have no clue how to adjust the valves, I've seen it done before, so is that covered in the manual? I need to find a sort of step by step of that part. I saw a bit about lining up an index mark and a "F" or "T" (I can't remember which) in the cam timing section of the manual. I picked up a manual off someone's previous post the other day and only have had time to scan the pages. I really do appreciate all the help ya'll have given me. ![]() The ATC250R remains a popular model for collectors due to its high-performance 2-stroke engines and racing heritage and the 4-stroke “X” ATCs continue to be popular trail machines.Wow, so I'm probably just going to keep it parked until I can get the parts and fix her up. ![]() This led to the creation of the ATC250R, a 2-stroke racing ATC based on the CR250 motocross line in 1981 and 3 more Sport ATCs, using 4-stroke engines. Originally catering to winter activity, campers, hunters and weekend Recreational riders that ATCs were envisioned for, their research showed there was a market for utility-focused machines for commercial and agricultural use, and dedicated sport models intended for leisure and competition use. As the popularity of ATCs exploded in the late seventies, Honda began to diversify their line. In 1970, Honda created the three-wheeled “All Terrain Cycle” market nearly single-handedly with the release of the Honda US90. The machines lacked luggage racks and other utilitarian features, commonplace on most other ATCs or ATVs. Honda Sport ATCs, produced until 1987, were built specifically for performance, and designed for use in racing, or for aggressive trail riding. ![]()
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